Thursday, August 28, 2008

Nha Trang

After a hellish 12 hour bus ride from Hoi An we arrived in Nha Trang
tired, cranky and in need of a sleep in a proper bed.

What should have been a relatively comfortable sleeping bus from Hahn
Cafe that we booked at an agent in Hoi An (well we thought we were
booked on to) instead was a cramped sleeping bus from TM Brothers -
definitely not the same standard.

The bus was overbooked with some passengers having to share these
miniscule 'beds'. We kept making unscheduled stops to drop off items
for relatives of bus staff and finally when we got to Nha Trang we
were told we were going to be dropped off in the centre if town, but
instead we were 4km north.

A taxi ride later and we were in the centre of town. We found
ourselves a lovely little mini hotel, quite aptly named Nice Hotel. It
wasn't till after a nap that we ventured out. Nha Trang reminds me a
bit of Surfers Paradise. Much more built up than any of the other
cities that we've seen to date. As we were told, very touristy and set
right on the waters edge. After a short walk around town we put on our
bathers and headed for the beach!

The sand was much coarser than the beach in Hoi An, but the water was
still clear and warm. It's impossible to sit on the beach here and not
be approached with people trying to sell you things. Drinks, local
foods, cigarettes, sunglasses, jewellery, books (photocopies, and not
very good ones at that) - pretty much anything and everything. At one
stage there was a young girl walking around selling a live lobster!
After a while your patience begins to abandon you and you become tired
of saying no thank you every minute or so. Every now and then someone
with a bit if personality will go past - one that sticks in my mind is
the lady selling fruit singing 'mango, pineapple, banana' - and you
actually feel compelled to purchase from them.

From the main beach area in Nha Trang you can see a number of
surrounding islands. The largest and most noticable is Hon Tre or
Vinpearl island. Being most noticable isn't due to the sheer size of
the island, but instead the Hollywood-esque 'Vinpearl' signage
blazened high up on the hill tops. Linking the mainland to the island
is a 3km long cable car suspended high above the water.

Late that afternoon we headed down town to take the scenic cable car
across the water. It wasn't till we got down there that we found out
about the theme park on the other side! The ride across scared the
shit out of me. It was so high above the water and me being the
paranoid freak that I am couldn't relax because I kept thinking about
drowning in our little cable car box.

The park itself was eerily clean and quiet. It wasn't till we were
about to leave that we saw a huge crowd. We're not sure were they came
from, but 1 minute there was 3 people in the queue for the return
cable car and then quite literally 150 or more!

Anyway, we had a go on some water slides before the water part closed.
We went on this one together in a rubber tube and the initial drop was
terrifying! It seemed almost straight down! I'll tell you what though,
but but was bloody sore after it. And boy did I scream. Andrew too!
The other hilarious one which Andy went (I wasn't brave enough) a long
dark tube and at the end you flop out from this UFO like contraption
into a pool of water. I'm not sure if these rides would pass safety
regulations in Australia but they were a bit of fun! The rest of the
time we wandered round, went on dodgem cars and played video games.

We spent most of our remaining time in Nha Trang laying under the
beach umbrellas on the beach (der). It was lovely and relaxing and we
both got a tan (well Andrew was a little red LOL. Okay, as was I).

We did take a rather exciting bike ride through the city to visit the
Long Son Pagoda and Giant (it certainly was) Seated Buddha. It wasnt
the destination that was exciting, it was more the exhiliration (read
terror) of riding through the busy traffic. Making left hand turns
through 6 point round abouts with hundreds of bikes and no rules was
enough to scare the living daylights out of me! Andrew loved every
minute of it though LOL, of course.

It was on this journey that we visited the Long Thanh Gallery, an
amazing photographer who manages to capture the essence of Vietnam in
his pictures. Well worth the look see.

We took a chance and booked another night bus to Saigon. More details
of that debarcle to follow, LOL.

Sent from my iPhone

My Son

Pronounced Mee Son, we left our hotel at 5.30am for this tour. The
lack of crowds made it much more serene and beautiful.

Hue

This guy was at the Pagoda and I couldn't help but want to twiddle his
beard. We think it was made of horse hair.

Hoi An

I wasn't expecting a whole lot from Hoi An to be perfectly honest,
from the write up Lonely Planet gave it. Other than the tour out to
the My Son ruins I wasn't expecting too much aside from the old
buildings and some nice meals.
But it has by far been my favourite city in Vietnam that we have
visited. The town is very quiet by comparison Hanoi and even Hué. It's
old buildings are on the Unesco Heritage List and rightly so. There
are many streets of them pretty much unchanged for many hundreds of
years.
The next thing I liked about Hoi An is the food! It's sooo good (with
a little help from our trusty Lonely Planet guide book). Both mentions
of the food and buildings of Hoi An are so pleasantly understated by
Lonely Planet, I had such a wonderful surprise once we got there and
actually experienced them. If you, wait, WHEN you come to Vietnam you
can't miss Hoi An and two restaurants. One is Bele Well where a very
hospitable Mai practically stuffs you full of authentic Vietnamese
cuisine, while teaching you basic Vietnamese lessons and customs.
"Mot, hai, ba,YO!" (1, 2, 3, CHEERS! roughly translated) She is quite
the charmer and puts on a superb feast. It's a meal you will NEVER
forget. You will come away with a fuller mind, belly and heart. The
people are what has made Vietnam so special to me (I'm pretty sure
Katie feels the same way) and Mai is one particular person that stands
out. Not forgetting the beautiful old lady from the rice museum in Hué.
But I digress. The other restaurant is Truc Vien just around the
corner from our hotel. It was so good when I saw other travellers
walking by to consider the menu is was telling them how good it was.
And then the next day we went back there for lunch again, the family
we ushered in and another couple who came after them, were all there
again for lunch. I had a wonton soup the first time and the second
time I had a sweet and sour pork which was more spicy than sweet and
sour bit it was absolutely delicious. Katie had the Hoi An specialty,
cao lau which is doughy flat noodles mixed with croutons, bean sprouts
and greens, topped with pork slices and served in savoury broth.
Apparently the real thing can only be had in Hoi An as the water for
cao lau noodles must come from Ba Le well.

Another main attraction of Hoi An and BIG drawcard for a lot of its
vistors are the tailors who can put together any clothes or outfit you
want in just a matter of days, perfectly tailored to fit in the finest
materials for less than it would cost to buy some nasty polyester/
nylon garments from kmart. I got a couple of silk cotton fitted
shirts, a couple of pants for work anf another pair for going out and
a 'Hugo Boss' suit made out of a wool silk blend. Katie got a really
flattering fitted french cuff shirt, two pairs of pants, a nice
floraly top with a deep round collar that almost comes off the
shoulder, a really nice white shirt that has rolled up, button up
cuffs and a beautiful fitted casual jacket. Lots of beautiful clothes
ready for...winter...(cough) but knowing Melbournes weather we will
probably get plenty of wear out of them on our return. =P The ladies
at Silk Road were wonderful. There was one particular lady who's name
I never found out who was so lovely. She spoke very good English even
though she finished school at 10. From what we could tell, she also
spoke spanish and was learning to play the piano in between customers.
We had a good chat with her about many things. The rat race that
people in Australia seem to be so hypnotized by, Vietnam and the
Vietnamese peoples plight were some of the topics that I remember.

How we found out about Silk Road was from some aussie travellers going
the opposite direction to us on the way to Hoi An from Hué, who were
very happy with their clothes also.

I'm noticing that we are meeting lots of nameless faces on this trip.
I really should make more of an effort to find out peoples names. Like
the Dutch couple that we kept on bumping into throughout Hué and Hoi
An and the Spanish and german couples who we kept crossing paths with
since Ha Long bay. All with no names.

Saturday, August 23, 2008

more ha long bay.










Some more pictures from Ha Long Bay...

View from the Amazing Cave out into the harbour


Inside the Amazing Cave

A few pictures from Ha Long Bay...

The 'Humanity Centre' on the way to Ha Long Bay


Our room on the junket



The beautiful view...


Us looking brown!


The amazing shrimp cocktail that was served for dinner!!